Taormina: a Beautiful Slice of Sicily

Fountain in Taormina

Overlook near Taormina

This is definitely a gargoyle post. On our Roman Empire cruise, my niece and I took an excursion to Taormina, Sicily. It was everything I hoped it would be and more. Set up on a hill and overlooking the sea and mountainous terrain with beautiful greenery thrown in, it is truly a gorgeous slice of Sicily.

What appears to be an abandoned night club with a Cross above

Stairway by souvenir shops

On that particular day, it happened to be the day after an election of some sort. It was so wonderful to observe all the local Italians standing in groups in the streets, conversing in whispers in corners and gesticulating wildly about the outcome. We had no idea who had run and won or lost, but it was great fun just being part of such a lovely place.

Behind the Greek Theater

Taormina is small and friendly. It is oozing with charm and lovely restaurants and hotels. It has a Greek theater, which to me was kind of the low point of the tour. I preferred the cappuccino and desserts and the stroll around town. I adored watching the children play. I even loved our group that day.

Greek Theater

Another view from the overlook

Walking around Taormina

Skip Messina. It is just another port town. Make your way instead to Taormina. More information can be found here. And if you ever do make it, please go in and check out Hotel Timeo. I really wanted to stay there but I was on a cruise. A good reason for me to go back! If you would like more info on the luxury hotel Timeo, please click here. It is located right in front of the Greek Theater. Enjoy!

Palermo Cathedral: Holiness in the Midst of Chaos

Palermo Cathedral

The Cathedral in Palermo is not only impressive, but a Holy Place. It just feels so wonderful to walk in. The guide books say the most impressive part is the outside of the building, but I loved the inside too. Information on the history of the Cathedral can be found on Wikipedia here

It is a jumble of Norman, Renaissance and Gothic elements. Tour groups were everywhere and we made our way in to the Cathedral with a group from the Holland America Eurodam. I couldn't have been happier with the Cathedral. It just felt right. We were on a tour that took us to Monreale, but we stopped first here and I am so glad we did. I loved the Palermo Cathedral so much more than the one in Monreale. I also loved Palermo more. Monreale is a quaint, lovely town but it doesn't have the vibrant nature nor the pandemonium or joy of life of Palermo. 

Palermo Cathedral

Closeup of statue at Palermo Cathedral

Closeup of floor design - interior Palermo Cathedral

Interior Palermo Cathedral

You decide but my vote will be for Palermo! Photos of the Cathedral at Monreale coming tomorrow. 

I was again on a cruise, this time from Rome to Rome, Western Med, traveling solo. I have to admit. I missed my husband a lot this trip, probably because even though I did meet some great people and had a few dinners with them ... it was not like 2011, where I had a group of 2 couples I did almost everything with. I missed you this trip ... Yvette, Ray, Neal and Tiara!

Remembering Taormina: Gargoyles Wanted

Gentlemen in Taormina

It has been four years since I went on the Roman Empire cruise with my niece, Sarah. There were so many wonderful things about that cruise - great ports, the perfect amount of days on the cruise (10) and a fabulous traveling companion. Since that year, I have traveled solo on most of my trips. In 2009, I went to Barcelona and Athens for 5 days each by myself. In 2010, Moises and I went to the Baltic to celebrate our ten year anniversary. In 2011 and 2012, I cruised solo. I have decided after these last two cruises that I definitely like traveling alone. It's not perfect as there are a few lonely moments, but I also get to do what I want when I want. And cruising is a perfect venue for a single middle-aged woman (eeh gads, did I actually say it out loud ... middle-aged.)

Taormina street

I will be 57 this month, so I guess I must admit it, but what is it about getting older that feels the same? Now I understand when a group of 80 year old women out to lunch call each other girls. I just don't feel old. Everybody else just looks way too young. I catch myself in awe when a young person drives by and I think they must be 12. Instead of me being old, the world just looks too youthful!

Moped in Taormina

In celebration of my upcoming birthday, I want to revisit Italy, starting with Taormina. There is something ageless about Rome with its crowds and crumbling ruins, graffiti and traffic, smog and confusion. It is somewhat sad but mostly hopeful. But one of my favorite places in Italy is Taormina, Sicily. It is a wonderful, quaint and friendly small town. Where Palermo, Sicily's capital, is like a loud belch, Taormina is a quiet whisper. 

Greek Theater at Taormina

Taormina is a place that beckons one of my favorite things ... gargoyles. I need to go back to try to find them. I am sure they are hidden there somewhere. If any of you readers have photos of gargoyles in Taormina or other parts of Sicily, I would love to post them here!

Almost gargoyles

Forza d'Agrò: A Feast for the Eyes

Forza d'Agro house entrance

I have done my fair share of travel, lots of it in Europe. I am very thankful for the opportunities I've had. But no matter where I go, my favorite places in the world are almost always in Italy. Greece has some gorgeous islands too, but Italy is just chock-full of lovely towns. My new favorite area in Italy is Sicily. I love the quaintness of Taormina, the madness and passion of Palermo; and I have also found a new town that is a feast for the eyes ... Forza d'Agro. I am not the first. Francis Ford Coppola chose it for all his Godfather movies.

Part of the Norman Castle that sits above Forza d'Agro in ruins

There is something magical about this town of Forza d'Agro, perched not far away but much further up than Messina in Sicily. It is an uphill climb from the ocean of 420 meters (around 1200 ft.). I almost thought the bus was not going to make it, but we did.

Forza d'Agro entry

Unfortunately too much time has elapsed and I can't figure out which set of doors this is. I don't think they are from the Baroque Church, possibly from San Agostino. It doesn't change the beauty of the doors.

Ceramic tiles showing the town map

Even the car park was charming

I took a tour from the ship called the Godfather tour. We were supposed to also go to Savoca, which I was really looking forward to. But the road was washed out, so we went to Taormina. I had been there before, but it is such a beautiful place, I really didn't mind going again. Photos of Taormina to follow!

Palermo: Traffic, Chaos and More

Palermo traffic

Our first stop on our Holland America Eurodam cruise was Palermo, Sicily. Before I went, I had mixed reviews from the friends who have been. Most said stay away, go to Monreale or somewhere else, but I'm glad I didn't skip the tour to Palermo. I loved it. There is something so uniquely charming about this chaotic, crazy place.

Palermo traffic on a Saturday

The traffic, because it was Saturday, was heavy but not horrible. There really wasn't a sense of hurry. Sicily is an amazing place, filled with sunshine, palm trees and people that are incredibly happy and hard-working. They smile. They gesture. They live life fully.

Palermo streets

I loved the city tour of Palermo, full of grime and graffiti but also with stores like Frette, the most wonderful linens on this planet. Frette sheets are incredible. Some day I hope to sleep on some!

Frette store at Palermo

We did a tour of Palermo to the Cathedral and then off to Monreale. I have to admit I preferred Palermo. Sure, the Cathedral in Monreale is impressive and I loved the coffee shop I went to, but for real charm, I pick Palermo any time!

Our driver on his cell phone while waiting in Palermo traffic

If you would like more information on what to see and do in Palermo, click here. It is a good list from Lonely Planet.

Delightful Details of the Monreale Cathedral

Imperial Sarcaphogus at Monreale Cathedral

The Monreale Cathedral has a bit of everything and a lot of mosaics. It has imperial sarcophagi, cherubs, and great marble floors. I even found online a map to follow all the mosaics as you walk around the Cathedral, but unfortunately I forgot to take a copy with me when I went. Here is the info here
Try not to do what I did ... don't  leave it in your suitcase to find when you get back home! I also never saw the Cloisters, which look beautiful. I am not even sure exactly where they are located.


But I did find some great architectural elements. Here are a few ...

Not a gargoyle but he is a great cherub

Closeup of one mosaic

Marvelous marble work at Monreale Cathedral

Monreale Tour

Monreale Cathedral Interior

I took a tour to the Monreale Cathedral on my Eurodam cruise from Rome to Rome, Western Med itinerary. It was included with a panoramic of Palermo. Monreale is a small, quaint town and quite charming. It was packed the day we were there with tours from the cruise ship and other land tour groups. In fact, it was so crowded that our guide recommended we return an hour later as they had a wedding scheduled, and we went through right before they closed the Cathedral for the wedding. Seemed a bit risky to me, so I couldn't help myself and slipped in beforehand to view the Cathedral with some of the crew setting up the wedding party. 

Monreale

Our group from the Holland America Eurodam

Monreale rooms to rent

Our guide gave us free time to check out the town and shop, which seems to be most of the cruisers favorite past time. I dislike shopping for souvenirs, so I went for coffee and wandered around. I love the above sign. Notice they take MasterCard, Visa and American Express to rent their rooms! (Universal language, right?)


My favorite graffiti in Monreale translates almost the same in Spanish, "pequeña mia, te amo" basically means "my little one, I love you."

"Little one, I love you" in Italian

Happy Mother's Day!

Monreale: More Than the Cathedral

Captivating woman at a coffee shop in Monreale

I promised a post on the Monreale Cathedral, but I have decided to post instead about the town. I found a wonderful coffee shop with the best cappuccino. The lovely woman who works making the espresso and cappuccino is a real pro, and the coffee was exquisite ... just like I like it - strong, not bitter. We could not communicate very well as she only spoke Italian, and there I was trying to speak to her in English and Spanish. We used a lot of hand signals and smiles. She took me over to the cashier stand, where her mother proudly showed me photos of her granddaughter, the daughter of the one who makes the coffee. The shot above I took candidly. It is my favorite of her.


The Cathedral at Monreale is the highlight for many people. It was very crowded and not really to my liking. The mosaics were impressive, but it was very dark inside. I preferred the Cathedral in Palermo, but Monreale is a charming, tiny town. 

Elegant gentleman outside the Cathedral

I love this shot of a local walking around the town. He has great posture and a jaunty cap. The drivers were crazy, almost running us down as we took photos and gawked. Here is a shot of our group from the Holland America Eurodam.

Holland America Eurodam group tour "Palermo & Monreale"

This is a shot of the view we had from the hill by the Cathedral.

View from Monreale

Promise Cathedral photos tomorrow. 


P.S. Can you find me in the first photo? I am barely visible in the mirror taking the photo!

Gargoyle Heaven: Terminal at Palermo

Cruise terminal at Palermo

The architecture of the terminal at Palermo was really interesting. I loved the fact that the leather seats were a little frayed. It was a premonition of what was to come, elegant but worn. 

There were lovely frescoes on the wall and the use of fine woods and leather. It reminded me of an era when the cruise liners made their way across the Atlantic. 

Close up of a fresco

As I stated earlier, I loved Palermo, much to my surprise. I found an article about this cruise port on cruise critic that pretty much sums up Palermo. That information can be found here. But it must be experienced to fully comprehend. One day was definitely not enough. I would love to go back.

Staircase at Palermo Terminal

Even though there were no gargoyles, I truly believe a gargoyle would be very happy to hang out here. I know I was!

Falling in Love: Graffiti of Palermo

Street in Palermo, Sicily

Everyone I spoke to before I left on my cruise said don't bother with Palermo. Make your way directly to Cefalu or Monreale, as Palermo is ugly and dirty. That's what they said, but that is not what I found. I cannot judge a place by how it looks but how it feels to me. Palermo is dirty. Palermo is full of graffiti and people. It is a jumble of all these things I rationalize are things I do not like. But guess what? I loved loved loved Palermo. 


Somehow the mix of old buildings and crowded streets combined with thousands of years of history, the sun, olive oil and smiles brought tears to my eyes. Even the graffiti did not bother me. It almost seems like it belongs here. 


Palermo is a mix of all that is good and bad in the world, with a dash of hope mixed in. It does not apologize for not being neat and tidy. I felt love and goodness. Here are some of the shots I took of the graffiti. 

Then I came across this, the Cathedral in Palermo. What's not to love!

Entering the Cathedral area of Palermo, Sicily

What to Do in Palermo?

Cathedral in Palermo

I haven't decided yet what tour I want to take in Palermo, Italy. One tour from the ship goes to the seaside town of Cefalù, the other one does a panorama of Palermo and then on to the Cathedral in Monreale. Both tours sound great. 


More information on Cefalù can be found on wikipeda ... click here. Monreale, on the other hand, is considered to be one of the best representation of Norman architecture in the world. Click here to read about Monreale on wikipedia. 

Monreale Cathedral

One client of mine recommended the seaside town and walk. Another client insists I will love Monreale. I feel torn. If anyone has an opinion, let me know  your thoughts.

William II at Sicily at Monreale