Mont St Michel A Few More Details and a Walk

Seen here are a few architecural gems of the Mont St Michel abbey. The views from near the top are incredible. There are walking tours of the bay at low tide with guides. If you would like more information on this, I found a great blog site that explains how it works. Classic Journeys low tide walk

Mont St Michel seen from above

Abbey seen from below

The walk up is super steep and strenuous. I would not recommend it for anyone with mobility issues. Our guide walked fast, but she did keep checking to be sure we were behind her.

Absolutely amazing place, but again I would love to see it less crowded. 

Mont San Michel Chapel & Abbey

Chapel inside Mont San Michel

Mont San Michel was a place I have been wanting to visit for a lot of years. I finally had that opportunity last month, and it did not disappoint. The only hard part was that the guide told us all the way there on the bus how crowded it would be, and she was right. She also wasn't really able to give us enough time to really enjoy it. Warnings about not eating at any of the restaurants ... we wouldn't have enough time. So I arrived in a panic about getting back. It wasn't really true either. I definitely could have eaten there. The problem is the little buses that take you to the site are a very long wait, so we were unsure how long it would take to get back. In the end, we waited for the bus to arrive for a while.

The only downside of the tour was the guide. Other than that, Mont St Michel is just beautiful and amazing. Truly though, if I was to do it again, I would definitely go there and stay in one of the hotels - enjoy it by day and night, and take my time. The feeling of being rushed almost ruined the excursion.

Our guide

Mont St Michel first impressions

Approaching Mont St Michel

For years, I have been wanting to visit Mont St Michel. On a cruise that went from Barcelona to Dover years ago, I tried to get on the tour but it was sold out. I have heard incredible things about it. It is an abbey and monastery in Normandy, France. But really it is so much more.

Another view of Mont St Michel

As we approached, I couldn't believe my eyes. Here stood this magnificent structure from the 8th century AD. But who would believe such a structure would be built on a piece of land that the ocean surrounds it every day? The tides come in and out. Sometimes you can walk to the abbey and the near by islands. But by 2pm in the afternoon, the signs in the parking lot tell you that you better have moved your car ... as that area will now be under water.

Parking lot that by 2pm is under water

You can get to the abbey by walking, taking a bus or taking a carriage with horses. The bus is the fastest way, but the lines are long for the bus.

Church at Eze #2

Church at Eze altar

The Church of our Lady of the Assumption is a Catholic Church at Eze, France. Tucked in a mountainside with fresh air and the scent of incense, this Church is a visiting stop for many tourists to the French Riviera. Eze is one of those special places, a walking town not far from the ritz of Monaco - but worlds away. The Church is from 1772 and more information on it can be found here.

Statue of St. Francis

While there, I chose to light some candles and say some prayers. In my mind, there is no better place for this.

Good place to pray

Church at Eze #1

Church at Eze, France

On my cruise of the Western Med, my favorite stop was Eze, France, and my favorite place at that stop was the Church. I have posted already about the graveyard outside, but the Church is also magnificent inside. It is humble and beautiful and amazing all at the same time. The sense of peace I felt when entering that Church was priceless.

Our Holland America Eurodam group taking photos

More photos

Personally right now, I am facing some major challenges and it is good to remember such a Holy Place. Just looking at these photos makes me realize that there is a whole lot more to life than a furniture business in Cozumel.

Eze Church

Enjoy!

Eze Cemetery: Mary Margaret Townsend

Peggy Davis possibly Mary Margaret Townsend

Gravestone of Mary Margaret Townsend

This was the first gravestone photo I took in the Eze Cemetery. It was so hauntingly beautiful and unique that it struck my eye. I never really focused on the dates that she was born and died, and only realized after finding out more about her that she only lived 25 years.  With a name like Mary Margaret Townsend, I assumed I would not find much information on her, but I could not have been more wrong. 

Mary Margaret Townsend was also known by her stage name, Peggy Davis. She had been a Broadway (Ziegfeld) Follies girl and first married at the age of 12. Her first two husbands were both bigamists and both marriages were annulled. She ended up on the French Riviera with her third husband and died, apparently of suicide or accident. Her car went over the embankment near Eze on one of the Cornice roads. She drank two double brandies, then wrote a quick note and drove off. There is much speculation about what actually happened that night, but it truly sounds like something out of an F. Scott Fitzgerald novel or even the plot of The Blind Assassin.

From one website I found, her husband said .... 

"My wife adored the Riviera. Here she desired to live, here she died, and it is fitting that she rest here forever," Mr. Townsend remarked after the funeral service. And in that grave ended the remarkable career of a stage butterfly, who, at the age of 25, had lived more than most women of 75.

More information about the life of Mary Margaret Townsend can be found here. 

Another exert from the same website ...

March 30, 1931
Birmingham, AL

A nine-year-old girl, whose nimble feet, and soprano voice attracted attention here in 1914, became a Broadway Follies beauty known as Peggie Davis and later the wife of David Townsend, Wall Street broker.

She was born here December 31, 1905, as Mary Margaret Laird, and in childhood she showed unusual ability in dancing and singing and won much attention.

Her father was a traveling salesman, and the family has since moved from the city.

The titan-haired beauty was married at age 13 to Colonel J. A. Davies, 43, of the ordinance department, United States Army, November 3, 1918. The marriage was annulled a year later. At the time the action was filed here she was working in the films in Los Angeles. Her complaint charged Davies had another wife in Texas.

Among the pictures in which she appeared was "Under Two Flags” with Theda Bara.



I also found a notice about her death in a 1931 newspaper from Florence, Alabama. Mary Margaret Laird (her maiden name) was born in Birmingham, Alabama, according to this newspaper account. Click here to read the full article.

I wonder now what drew me to these particular graves. This was definitely a sadder tale than the first. RIP, Mary Margaret!

Eze Cemetery: Olga Platonina Dinwiddie

Gravestone of Olga Platonina Dinwiddie

First of all, I want to say that the cemetery in Eze is adjacent to the most beautiful Church, a place of peace and serenity. You can see for miles around to the mountains and to the sea. It is tucked in to a mountain side. I believe that a person could not find a more fitting place to be put to rest. 

When I decided to investigate the reason that some of the gravestones in the cemetery were in English, I would never have believed the fascinating information I would find. I picked Olga Platonina Dinwiddie as the first person to check out, as her name is so unique and she has such a beautiful granite stone. Born in 1886 in St. Petersburg, Russia, her former name was Olga Platonina Stenbock-Fermor, and she was a Countess. She was also an accomplished painter and her works are still sold today. There seems to be a mystery surrounding her life. Not much is known other than she was born in 1886 and died in 1956, according to the art dealers who sell her paintings. 

She was known to have spent a lot of time in Paris and possibly Italy. Her most famous paintings are listed as Italian 20th Century and I found two sites in England that has paintings of hers for sale. They are Wooley and Wallis and Newfield Galleries.

Since I found her gravestone and was able to investigate the genealogy of her husband, Donald Mackenzie Dinwiddie, I was able to piece together some information on her life. I found that she married in 1929 at the Brentford Registry Office in the UK. The man she married had an incredibly interesting past. His grandfather was David Dinwiddie from Penpont, Dumfrie-shires, Scotland, who spent most of his life working for the British Crown in India. His grandmother was Mary Mackenzie, who was born in India, but her family roots were from Glasgow, Scotland and Dublin, Ireland. The grandfather, David Dinwiddie, wrote his memoirs and they are incredible. If you are interested in what life was like in the 1800s in the British colony of India, click here. 

But the most amazing thing I found was on a genealogy site, and it was written by the nephew of Donald Dinwiddie. For the article, click here. But the gist of it is this ... Countess Olga Stenbock-Fermor fell out of a taxi in Paris in the arms of the man who would become her husband. It doesn't get more romantic than that. I never thought I would find such a wonderful fairy tale life from one grave stone! RIP, Ms. Olga!

Cherbourg and Normandy: Simply Wonderful

Barfleur

On the Holland America Ms Eurodam cruise from Barcelona to Dover, we made a stop at Cherbourg, France. I had no expectations. My aunt had been to the beaches of Normandy and found them cold and uninviting, so I decided to take a tour out to the countryside and to Val-de-Saire and Barfleur from the cruise ship. The towns looked charming and picturesque online. 
I actually met a family from Normandy when I was in Athens on a boat cruise and kind of felt sorry for them for having to live there (based on what my aunt had told me.) Little did I know that when I disembarked, I would fall in love with Normandy. It is a beautiful green countryside with ocean views. It just doesn't get better than that. I have heard the winters can be rough, but the day we arrived, it was warm but not hot ... the sun shone bright and the air was crisp. 

The bus meandered along the ocean road until we stopped at a lighthouse. While everyone else took photos of the lighthouse, I asked for permission to run down the road and take a photo of some sheep I saw grazing.

My favorite sheep

Dashing quickly as I knew I didn't have much time, I approached the sheep closest to the fence. She immediately came to me and rubbed her ear against my hand. She was so friendly and adorable. A man appeared with some clover, but she preferred to be petted. I found out from our guide later that they were English sheep. I loved petting her! I stayed as long as I could but when I saw everyone was back on the bus, I ran to catch up.

Amazing espresso and yummy bread and butter

We continued on to Barfleur, one of the most charming medieval towns I have ever been. Famished when we arrived, I went inside the only coffee shop I saw open and asked for a double espresso and pastry. All the barkeep had was french bread and butter. It was the tastiest bread and butter I have ever eaten. 


Back on the bus, we headed through the Val-de-Saire countryside, which is absolutely stunning. Our guide told us that the Camembert cheese comes from this area. I made sure when I returned to Cherbourg to pick up some Camembert at the local grocery. The Camembert cheese available in Cozumel where I live is good for one year. This cheese expires in 30 days as it does not have any preservatives. It was truly the most amazing cheese I have ever eaten in my life. The taste was nutty, creamy and sinfully delicious. After eating that cheese, I wanted to move to Normandy! (I loved the city of Cherbourg as well.) It must be the world's best kept secret.

 More information on Normandy can be found here

Thinking of Paris

me and Moises at Versailles 2002

My heart goes out to all the people around the world who lost somebody in the terrible tragedies in Paris this week. No words can begin to describe what we are all feeling - anger, shock, disbelief. I remember our one and only trip to Paris in 2002. We have not been back, as I was sure we could never recreate such a fairy tale trip. It was our most romantic vacation.

me at the Hotel California

Younger and much thinner then, Moises took a photo of me in the lobby of our hotel. Between all the amazing architecture and the Louvre, we were so impressed. And we loved the people of Paris. They were amazing. Now understand my husband speaks five languages, which goes a long way in Paris. We never once found anyone rude or abrupt. I have a harder time navigating the streets of New York. They aren't really rude, just always in a hurry. 

One of the architectural wonders of Paris

Stay safe, get well and hope to see you again one day. Take care, dear friends of France, and I really hope things get back to normal soon. The world has gone crazy. Let's hope we can right these troubled times.

Gargoyles of Paris

Photo courtesy of Florian Siebeck

I wandered on to a wonderful link for gargoyles today,Paris Evolving Under the Gaze of Notre Dame's Gargoyles. These three great photos are from this site. Definitely worth a look.

Photo courtesy of Carlos Eduardo Seo

Photo courtesy of Laertes

I haven't posted on either Gargoyles or Graffiti lately. Have to get back to it! So this is a gargoyles post ... graffiti to follow.

Memories of Nice #2

Flowers in window at Nice

Looking back, I really enjoyed our walking tour of Nice. It was just such a whirlwind of new experiences that I was slightly taken aback. For instance, when I visited Portofino, it was incredible. Not only was it gorgeous, but the best part for me was that it is small. I only had to take in a little bit to drink up its beauty. But a place like Nice, with its traffic, grime and smells - takes a bit more getting used to. I do hope I get to go back one day and stay awhile.

Woman beggar on steps of a Church at Nice

Within one block, we saw a woman begging for money on the steps of a Church. Walk a bit and there is an amazing upscale art gallery. Nice is like that!

Art gallery at Nice

A shot of Pascal's hand as we were leaving Nice

Back on the bus leaving Nice, I tried to capture a shot of a beautiful building with sky blue shutters. Instead I got Pascal's hand. Thought it came out great, as if to say "Bye, bye Nice!"

Memories of Nice #1

Wall at Nice, France

I did a walking tour on my last cruise of Nice, France. Like a lot of places, while I was there, I focused on the dirt and decay. But once I am back and can take some perspective and look at the memories of my trip, Nice took on a whole new light. Our guide, Pascal, was fabulous - warm, funny, charming and oh so French. It was a delight just watching her work. Her accent was beautiful and I was amazed at what she could do with a scarf. Just throwing it over her shoulder, she appeared like a queen.

Walking tour of Nice

Pascal is the one carrying the sign, number 2, but you can't see her in this photo.

Trompe-l'oeil wall at Nice

Woman in window listening to our tour guide 

We wandered through the streets. At one point, Pascal stopped to speak and a woman above in a window listened to our every word.

Pascal, our guide, on the left

This is a photo of Pascal taken on the steps of the Cathedral in Monaco where Princess Grace is buried.

Heather's Photos: Paris Vintage Shop Fit for Gargoyles

photo by Heather Wolf Bryan at Paris

Paris is one of those places where gargoyles abound. This vintage shop that Heather Wolf Bryan photographed on her most recent trip there is one such place. I love how the clothing hangs down from the ceiling. You can just imagine a gargoyle or two hiding between the dresses.

Boots anyone? by Heather Wolf Bryan

I am not quite sure what material is covering the structure that holds the boots, but it almost looks like jean material. How creative! Actually in the next photo I can make out it is jean material that covers the structures.

Staircase photo by Heather Wolf Bryan

Funky shop by Heather Wolf Bryan

So if gargoyles have not made it here yet, this is a notice to all gargoyles. Make your way to this vintage shop and make yourself at home. Thanks again, Heather, for the great photos!

More from Heather: Eiffel Tower

from collection of Heather Wolf Bryan at Paris

I love the above photo as you can see the hurry in the crowd's steps. That is the one thing that amazed and kind of frightened me about Paris. After living in Cozumel a few years when I went there, I just couldn't keep up. Everybody walks so fast. I have seen many photos of the Eiffel Tower. But I love the way Heather has taken a new and fresh look at it.

Eiffel Tower by Heather Wolf Bryan

another great shot by Heather Wolf Bryan

I thought I should include at least one photo of our photographer, Heather, with Ines peeking out on the right hand corner.

Heather and a barely visible Ines on the far right

If you would like more information on the history of the Eiffel Tower, click here.

Paris: Seen from Heather's Eyes

Photo by Heather Wolf Bryan at Paris, France

I haven't been to Paris in twelve years, but it appears it hasn't changed much. It is still one of my favorite places on earth. Even though I didn't get to go this year, I am living my beautiful memories through a friend's photos. Heather Wolf Bryan went with her good friend Ines and Ines' daughter Cari and spent time in a wonderful apartment. 

Photo from collection of Heather Wolf Bryan

Serge Lutens perfume shop at Palas Royal from Heather Wolf Bryan

It amazed me how the things that attract Heather's eyes are exactly the same type of photos that attract me, a gargoyles and graffiti sort of touch. Wonderful architectural elements with almost no photos of humans. LOL

from collection of Heather Wolf Bryan at Paris

Heather took hundreds of photos. I am going to choose a small collection and feature them on Gargoyles and Graffiti this month. I just needed these types of photos to get motivated to write again! Thanks, Heather.

Photo by Heather Wolf Bryan at Paris