"Gargoyles & Graffiti"chronicles architectural elements that I find interesting or unique in my travels. Gargoyles are my passion, but today graffiti (which I hate but am learning to love as it is everywhere) is as much a part of architecture as the gargoyles and decorative railings that thrill me.

Thursday, June 20, 2019

Church at Eze #2

Church at Eze altar

The Church of our Lady of the Assumption is a Catholic Church at Eze, France. Tucked in a mountainside with fresh air and the scent of incense, this Church is a visiting stop for many tourists to the French Riviera. Eze is one of those special places, a walking town not far from the ritz of Monaco - but worlds away. The Church is from 1772 and more information on it can be found here.

Statue of St. Francis

While there, I chose to light some candles and say some prayers. In my mind, there is no better place for this.

Good place to pray

Tuesday, June 18, 2019

Church at Eze #1

Church at Eze, France
On my cruise of the Western Med, my favorite stop was Eze, France, and my favorite place at that stop was the Church. I have posted already about the graveyard outside, but the Church is also magnificent inside. It is humble and beautiful and amazing all at the same time. The sense of peace I felt when entering that Church was priceless.
Our Holland America Eurodam group taking photos


More photos

Personally right now, I am facing some major challenges and it is good to remember such a Holy Place. Just looking at these photos makes me realize that there is a whole lot more to life than a furniture business in Cozumel.


Eze Church
Enjoy!

Monday, June 17, 2019

Eze Cemetery: Mary Margaret Townsend

Peggy Davis possibly Mary Margaret Townsend
Gravestone of Mary Margaret Townsend

This was the first gravestone photo I took in the Eze Cemetery. It was so hauntingly beautiful and unique that it struck my eye. I never really focused on the dates that she was born and died, and only realized after finding out more about her that she only lived 25 years.  With a name like Mary Margaret Townsend, I assumed I would not find much information on her, but I could not have been more wrong. 

Mary Margaret Townsend was also known by her stage name, Peggy Davis. She had been a Broadway (Ziegfeld) Follies girl and first married at the age of 12. Her first two husbands were both bigamists and both marriages were annulled. She ended up on the French Riviera with her third husband and died, apparently of suicide or accident. Her car went over the embankment near Eze on one of the Cornice roads. She drank two double brandies, then wrote a quick note and drove off. There is much speculation about what actually happened that night, but it truly sounds like something out of an F. Scott Fitzgerald novel or even the plot of The Blind Assassin.

From one website I found, her husband said .... 

"My wife adored the Riviera. Here she desired to live, here she died, and it is fitting that she rest here forever," Mr. Townsend remarked after the funeral service. And in that grave ended the remarkable career of a stage butterfly, who, at the age of 25, had lived more than most women of 75.

More information about the life of Mary Margaret Townsend can be found here

Another exert from the same website ...

March 30, 1931
Birmingham, AL

A nine-year-old girl, whose nimble feet, and soprano voice attracted attention here in 1914, became a Broadway Follies beauty known as Peggie Davis and later the wife of David Townsend, Wall Street broker.

She was born here December 31, 1905, as Mary Margaret Laird, and in childhood she showed unusual ability in dancing and singing and won much attention.

Her father was a traveling salesman, and the family has since moved from the city.

The titan-haired beauty was married at age 13 to Colonel J. A. Davies, 43, of the ordinance department, United States Army, November 3, 1918. The marriage was annulled a year later. At the time the action was filed here she was working in the films in Los Angeles. Her complaint charged Davies had another wife in Texas.

Among the pictures in which she appeared was "Under Two Flags” with Theda Bara.



I also found a notice about her death in a 1931 newspaper from Florence, Alabama. Mary Margaret Laird (her maiden name) was born in Birmingham, Alabama, according to this newspaper account. Click here to read the full article.

I wonder now what drew me to these particular graves. This was definitely a sadder tale than the first. RIP, Mary Margaret!

Wednesday, June 12, 2019

Eze Cemetery: Olga Platonina Dinwiddie

Gravestone of Olga Platonina Dinwiddie
First of all, I want to say that the cemetery in Eze is adjacent to the most beautiful Church, a place of peace and serenity. You can see for miles around to the mountains and to the sea. It is tucked in to a mountain side. I believe that a person could not find a more fitting place to be put to rest. 

When I decided to investigate the reason that some of the gravestones in the cemetery were in English, I would never have believed the fascinating information I would find. I picked Olga Platonina Dinwiddie as the first person to check out, as her name is so unique and she has such a beautiful granite stone. Born in 1886 in St. Petersburg, Russia, her former name was Olga Platonina Stenbock-Fermor, and she was a Countess. She was also an accomplished painter and her works are still sold today. There seems to be a mystery surrounding her life. Not much is known other than she was born in 1886 and died in 1956, according to the art dealers who sell her paintings. 

She was known to have spent a lot of time in Paris and possibly Italy. Her most famous paintings are listed as Italian 20th Century and I found two sites in England that has paintings of hers for sale. They are Wooley and Wallis and Newfield Galleries.

Since I found her gravestone and was able to investigate the genealogy of her husband, Donald Mackenzie Dinwiddie, I was able to piece together some information on her life. I found that she married in 1929 at the Brentford Registry Office in the UK. The man she married had an incredibly interesting past. His grandfather was David Dinwiddie from Penpont, Dumfrie-shires, Scotland, who spent most of his life working for the British Crown in India. His grandmother was Mary Mackenzie, who was born in India, but her family roots were from Glasgow, Scotland and Dublin, Ireland. The grandfather, David Dinwiddie, wrote his memoirs and they are incredible. If you are interested in what life was like in the 1800s in the British colony of India, click here

But the most amazing thing I found was on a genealogy site, and it was written by the nephew of Donald Dinwiddie. For the article, click here. But the gist of it is this ... Countess Olga Stenbock-Fermor fell out of a taxi in Paris in the arms of the man who would become her husband. It doesn't get more romantic than that. I never thought I would find such a wonderful fairy tale life from one grave stone! RIP, Ms. Olga!

Thursday, June 6, 2019

Angro do Heroismo

Angro do Heroismo Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Founded in 1478, Angra do Heroismo is a gorgeous jewel of a town with the most beautiful architecture. Like Lisbon, the streets are made of pieces of volcanic rock with patterns.

street of Angra do Heroismo
It makes walking a bit of a challenge, but they really are beautiful. There are some great YouTube videos if you just google "what the streets of Angra do Heroismo are made of." 

We arrived on a Sunday, so basically nothing was open. Same thing happened to us in 2014 when we arrived in Horta. But it was nice to just walk the streets and enoy the architecture.


We did a walking tour of Angra for about an hour and then were given some free time. Note how the second stories have these lovely small balconies with intricate iron work. I saw a shoe shop.

Shoe store in Angra de Heroismo


A bit later we came upon the Se Cathedral, also known as the Church of Santissimo Salvador. Very gorgeous, the only sad thing was we didn't get to go in any of the Churches.

Church of Santissimo Salvador

Wednesday, June 5, 2019

Terceira Island: Part of the Azores

Terceira as seen from Mount Brasil
I really had no idea what would actually kickstart me to go back and post on my blog. It seemed like nothing. I went back and realized it is now the beginning of June and I have not posted anything at all so far this year. But what is weird (funny) is that whenever I speak to friends about travel, I reference something I did and need to go back and check the names/dates/places on my blog, so if for nothing else, it can serve as a personal reminder of my trips. 

I had decided to do a transatlantic cruise again. Kind of a silly ideas as I typically travel solo, and this would be a lot of time on a ship and out to sea by myself. I picked the brand new ship from Holland America, the Nieuw Statendam, which I thought while planning was a good choice. How bad can brand new be? Well I found out, it really wasn't the greatest choice but I will leave that for another post.

The first port we came to after some rather glorious days at sea was the island of Terceira in the Azores. We docked at Praia di Vitoria and I went on an excursion called Terceira Island Highlights with Lunch. 



Botanical Garden, Terceira 
The island is lush and green. It tends to rain or mist every day in parts of the island, which gives it its emerald green grass color. Just beautiful. There are more bulls and cows than people on the island of Terceira.

Bulls on Terceira


They have some unusual customs that include a very odd type of bullfighting and ceremonies that they say are not religious, but surely look to be. I will write another post about that. The island is so unique, I really wish I could go back and check it out more.


Our group from shore excursion at the Adega Lusitania restaurant



But for now suffice it to say, if you have a delicate stomach, avoid the dish called Alcatra. It is meat marinated in spices for 12 hours. I ended up in bed for 2 days after with my stomach out of sorts. It is not that it was bad, just bad for me. The restaurant where we ate was really charming and very old. It was called Adega Lusitania and the sign outside says it is a typical fish and shellfish restaurant that has been there for 50 years.

Outside of the restaurant where we ate on Terceira Island





Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Tetouan Again

Pension in Medina of Tetouan
Walking through the Medina of Tetouan, which is hundreds of years old, our guide showed up a typical Pension or typical small hotel room. Based on the age and dirtiness of the sign, I would not think it would be like the Ritz. 

Herb shop 
Each shop in the Medina would have something outside to identify it. Whether they sold herbs or vegetables, their wares would be displayed. Some areas were more makeshift carts with tarps over, where others appear to be areas where people live and work. 

Vegetables on display


There were some amazing architectural features along the way, including some very nice doors. Below is an example of one of the doors we saw along our walking tour.

Door and entry in the Medina

Then we came across this sheep. Why he has the marking on the back, I am not sure. Is it that the sheep is scheduled to be slaughtered?

Sheep at the Medina
Hygiene does not appear to be a high priority in this area, but by far the worst area we walked through was where they were preparing the animal hides in to leather. The stench was beyond what you can imagine. I kept being terrified I would fall in to one of the vats. Unfortunately the photos that I took of this area were on my phone that was later stolen, so I have no photos to share. Not sure if that isn't a blessing. But I did find a few photos online.